Ipswich’s magnificent Castle Hill crane estate: walks, views, music and arts

If there’s a crown jewel on the North Shore coast, this is it.

What’s not to love about Castle Hill? A spectacular location, a well-preserved stately home set atop a hill with grounds that include a rose garden, the Italian Garden, the Casino set deceptively below sight lines and the half-mile Grand Allee, all designed by the Olmsted Brothers, sons of Frederick Law Olmsted. Add to that a lively program of events run smoothly by The Trustees and a variety of hiking routes that include marsh, woodlands, lawns and beach and you have perhaps the perfect place to visit.

Castle Hill was owned and developed by the Crane family of Chicago – there was a considerable fortune to be made in the early 1900s as outhouses gave way to the luxury of indoor plumbing. The original Italian Renaissance mansion was built in 1912, and much of the barn and garage complex remains in a matching stucco-and-terra-cotta-roof style. What’s a bit mind-blowing is that Richard Crane’s wife decided that the original house was cold and drafty, and after what would have been some interesting conversations to listen in on, Richard tore down the original structure in 1926 and built the current Tudor Revival house that survives to this day.

When to visit

Be aware that Castle Hill is a premier destination for visitors on the North Shore. It is proximate to Crane Beach, which attracts droves, especially on summer weekends. The Trustees charge admission to Castle Hill and have instituted a reservation system, so it is best to check on their current policies before visiting.

I’ve found that off- and shoulder-season visits are rewarding. You can hike pretty much anywhere with little company and you can better enjoy the same distant views in all directions that the crowds do in the summer.

Summer events

Summer events include a Summer Concert Series on Thursday nights which offer the perfect opportunity to bring a picnic and visit the beer truck for a local Ipswich Ale. There are Cocktails at the Castle nights, a Roaring Twenties Lawn Party in August and a true throw-back classic sports car event, the Castle Hill Vintage Hill Climb in October.

In appreciation

This is a good time to give thanks to the vision and generosity of the Crane family, who bequeathed Castle Hill and Crane Beach to The Trustees in 1945. Over subsequent years, jazz luminaries such as Louis Armstrong and Ella Fitzgerald have performed there. I witnessed a highly entertaining theatrical musical performed in the Casino, Liberties Taken, in a pre-broadway run that sadly never materialized in the 1980s.

A fun fact about Castle Hill: In 1987, the terrific Cher/Pfeiffer/Sarandon/Nicholson vehicle, The Witches of Eastwick, used the grounds and exterior of the mansion for establishing shots, before moving inside to a much grander Hollywood set for interior shots.