A big day in Marblehead: a little of this and a little of that

The motivation for a Marblehead visit isn’t obvious at first – there is no world-famous museum, no broad sandy beaches, and its a bit hard to get to. But spend some time here and the reasons gradually add up. There’s no town quite like it on Boston’s North Shore. The town’s history is evident in the winding streets and one-of-a-kind houses of quirky Old Town, the palatial houses on leafy Marblehead Neck and the magnificent protected harbor filled with boats of all kinds.

Lacking a traditional New England town common, Marblehead makes do with its large harbor. Surrounded by its six temples of sailing – Marblehead’s yacht clubs pretty much wrote the history of American sailing – the harbor is central to the community.

To tour Marblehead in a day, let’s start on the coast: the lighthouse at the head of the harbor in Chandler Hovey Park. To reach it you’ll drive through the upscale neighborhood of Marblehead Neck. The park has off-street parking and public rest rooms, which can be welcome after a drive. Walk out on the point and you’ll be treated to sweeping views of the town looking west over the harbor. This is a great spot for photos or videos.

Returning to your car, seek out Castle Rock Park just down Ocean Street and park on the street. A short walk will take you to this prominent coastal outcropping and its seaward views. Close by it’s surprising to find the tranquil Marblehead Neck Wildlife Sanctuary smack in its center. The entrance and a parking lot is found at the end of Risley Road, just off of Ocean Street. It offers a quiet place to walk on a short loop path. Signage at the entrance will point you in the right direction.

Leaving Marblehead Neck, let’s retrace our route across the causeway on Ocean Avenue. If you’re yearning for the feeling of sand between your toes, a stop at Devereax Beach will scratch your itch. As an alternative, consider driving to the Goldthwait Reservation to the west of the beach to Phillips Street. You’ll find a pleasant small park and access to the beach as well. Be aware that it is a rocky shore with sand exposed mainly at low- to half-tide.

Now it’s time to explore Old Town – get ready to wander! Follow your map app directions to Washington Square and Abbott Hall. Look for parking on the street and always pay attention to parking signs and rules.

Abbott Hall in the center of the Square is our first stop. It serves as town hall, museum and gathering place. On entry you’ll find display cases on both sides of the hallway containing historic artifacts and photos. Enter the Selectmen’s Room to your right and you’ll be greeted by the formidable Spirit of ’76 painting by Archibald Willard. Several other historic paintings grace the walls, including a depiction of Marblehead men rowing General Washington across the Delaware River.

Across the hall you’ll find a contemporary maritime exhibit detailing the establishment of the American Navy and ships over the centuries. Interactive displays will keep young minds informed and engaged.

Don’t leave without climbing the stairs to the second floor auditorium for a peek, used as a place for townspeople to congregate for nearly 150 years.

We’ll let the Marblehead Historical Commission take it from here, following their walking tour of downtown Marblehead. You can download a print their brochure PDF which gives more detail about historic houses along the way.

For the curious stroller, Old Town has a number of “secret passageways” that meander between houses and streets. These are fun to explore and are detailed on Marblehead Conservancy’s printable map.

This may be a good time to take a lunch break – we’ve provided some restaurant suggestions below.

If you have a bit more time, to the north of Fort Sewall you’ll find a lovely vantage point for viewing the outer harbor at Fountain Park. Just across the street from the park lies the Old Burial Hill Cemetery with gravestones dating back to the 1600s. The odd and sometimes humorous carvings and engravings offer a glimpse at life and death in the Puritan and Colonial Eras.

Nearby you’ll find the Little Harbor Lobster Company at 3 Beacon Street, located adjacent to a busy boat yard. This out-of-the-way joint keeps things simple and casual, and they happen to make one of the best lobster rolls you’ll ever taste!

As you wrap up your visit, consider a stop for refreshments and a bite to eat at one of the fine establishments listed below.

Fun fact: When a local doesn’t grasp something obvious and they finally get the point, what do they say? “Ah, dawn breaks over Marblehead!”